Departing normality behind at Cairns, we ventured along the Peninsula Developmental Road. This further deteriorated right into a deep corrugated track which wound along the way of the telegraph line, between giant rainforest trees along with across innumerable rivers up to the little Aboriginal town of Bamaga on Cape York. “The Entrance to HELL — get back if you can”, proclaimed an amusing handpainted sign once we headed off into the true wilderness!
River crossings of just about all manner and form punctuated the journey — with axle-deep red dirt, decrepit log bridges (your odd log missing every now and then to add to the challenge), deep sand or fast flowing water to keep you on your toes. It was a classic four wheel drive adventure. The grandest challenge, however, was the crossing of the Jardine River.
Even in the dry season, the Jardine River, just 35 km to the south of Bamaga, is a wide, not too deep, quick-flowing river. In 1985, the luxury of a tiny punt had just become open to carry the vehicles owned by the less brave across this famous barrier for the princely sum of $25. Many marital battles then erupted around the banks of the Jardine as cautious wives and thrill-seeking husbands debated the relative merits of the challenging river crossing plus the tame punt ride. As newlyweds, we too had our dispute here, but in our case it turned out the thrill-seeking wife who desired the river experience!
To drive across a river this way requires substantial preparation. A diesel motor such as ours requires a long air snorkel to draw in air from well over any possible water level. Tyres must be deflated, waterproof covers packed round the engine and openings including fuel tanks and doors must be securely sealed. We watched with interest as many vehicles attempted the crossing — and many failed, becoming stranded mid-river with the waters swirling round the driver’s feet and camping gear floating in the back of the vehicle!
Finally the adventure-seeking partner prevailed. A group of fellow Patrol travellers came to our aid and loaned us a snorkel and also covers which fitted our vehicle. So with our vehicle decorated like a Christmas lunch, we drove down into the muddy waters of the heaving Jardine.
Across the river we drove, pushing a significant bow-wave just before us. Mick said it felt so great he wanted to change direction and keep driving in the river! Then through a heart-stopping very deep hole at the end and up the steep bank we drove, masters of the Jardine. I bet they do not have this much fun when doing one of the organised Cape York Tours.
Our dripping wet vehicle on the other side seemed little the worse due to the adventure. However, it cost us more to change the differential oils which had become waterlogged compared to little punt ride would’ve cost. So sanity prevailed on our return journey 30 days later and the Landcruiser required a drier ride across the Jardine on the car ferry!